How to identify pure kanchi pattu?

Identifying a pure Kanchipuram (Kanchi pattu) silk saree can be tricky because of the numerous replicas available in the market. Genuine Kanchi pattu sarees are prized for their heavy weight, rich luster, and intricate zari work.

If you are looking to verify the authenticity of a Kanchipuram silk saree, here are the best tests and identifying features:

1. The Zari Scratch Test Authentic Kanchipuram sarees use pure zari, which is made by taking a red silk thread, twisting it with a silver wire, and then dipping it in pure gold. To test this, loosely scratch or scrape the zari on the saree. If red silk emerges from the core, the zari is pure. If it reveals white or yellow threads, the zari is fake.

2. The Burn Test Pluck a few loose threads from the warp and weft (or the tassels) of the saree and light them with a match.

• Pure Silk: It will stop burning as soon as the flame is removed, smell like burning hair, and leave behind a crisp, black ash that easily crumbles in your fingers.

• Artificial Silk: It will catch fire quickly, smell like burning plastic, and leave a hard, solid lump of ash.

3. Look for the 'Korvai' Joint In a traditional Kanchi pattu saree, the body and the border are woven separately and then interlocked together using a technique called Korvai. If you look at the reverse side of the saree where the body meets the border, you will see a distinct zigzag, uneven line. Fake power-loom sarees usually have a seamless, straight weave without this interlocking.

4. Check for the Silk Mark The easiest and most reliable way to identify pure silk is to look for the Silk Mark tag. This label is an initiative by the Silk Mark Organisation of India (Ministry of Textiles) and guarantees that the product is made of 100% natural silk.

5. Weight and Luster Pure Kanchipuram sarees are generally heavier than standard silk sarees. A genuine saree can weigh anywhere between 1 to 2 kilograms depending on the amount of zari used, owing to the use of heavy three-ply silk yarn. Furthermore, pure silk has a rich, soft, and warm luster, whereas synthetic silk tends to have an overly glossy, cheap, and unnatural shine.

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